Island Peak - Training
Climbing Island Peak (Imja Tse) in Nepal is a dream for many adventure enthusiasts - and I am no exception. Standing at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet), it offers a challenging yet achievable goal for reasonable hikers, trekkers and wannabe mountaineers. For someone who has never been above 3,000 meters (me), preparing for such an ascent requires a well-structured training regimen, dedication, and a thorough understanding of high-altitude climbing. In November this year I am embarking on a small expedition to climb Island Peak and I put the following together as a bit of a brain dump so that I knew what I needed to focus on and consider in preparation for this.
Understanding the Challenge
Island Peak is not just a walk in the park. It involves trekking through rugged terrain, crossing glaciers, and using technical climbing skills. The altitude poses the most significant challenge, with the air becoming thinner and the risk of altitude sickness increasing as you ascend. Your body needs to adapt to lower oxygen levels, which requires acclimatization and proper physical conditioning.
Physical Conditioning
Cardiovascular Fitness: Building cardiovascular endurance is crucial. My cardio focus up to this point has been 5 sessions of HIIT per week at my local TRIB3 gym for the last 3 months, intending to remain more or less at this until 1 month before heading to Nepal. With just over 4 months of training to go I am now incorporating some additional running into my cardio plans - nothing mad, 3 or 4 sessions per week at about 10 kmph for about 30 - 40 minutes. I will gradually increase the time over the coming months.
Strength Training: Climbing requires strong legs, core, and upper body. So, I am now incorporating dedicated gym sessions 2-3 times per week into my training on top of the HIIT, that focuses on compound exercises like squats, lunges, deadlifts, and step-ups for leg strength. I include core exercises like planks and Russian twists and for upper body strength, I incorporate push-ups, pull-ups, and dumbbell exercises.
Hiking with a Backpack: Nothing quite can replicate the outdoor conditions than being in the outdoors! So I simulate the conditions of the climb by hiking with a loaded backpack for 6-7 hours once per week with some back-to-back days. I am starting with a lighter pack but will gradually increase the weight. This not only builds strength and endurance but also helps me get used to carrying the weight I’ll have on the climb. In the gym I am starting sessions on the dreaded Stairmaster with a weighted backpack on my back - this is sheer torture to be honest.
Acclimatization
Acclimatization is critical to avoid altitude sickness. However, living in Ireland there is not a lot I can do about this now as our highest mountain is just over 1000m and in fairness the reduction in oxygen levels at that altitude is minimal! There are training facilities that simulate low-oxygen environments but they are expensive to use. The reality is that acclimatization will be achieved on the expedition in preparation for the climb.
Technical Skills
Island Peak requires some technical climbing skills. Thankfully I have some experience in how to use crampons, ice axes, and ropes from a trip to Mont Blanc 2 years ago. However, training and practice will be provided on the expedition itself.
Mental Preparation
This is possibly the area that concerns me most. Climbing at high altitudes is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Long hours of trekking in cold, windy conditions can be mentally exhausting. In order to develop greater mental resilience I know I need to undertake some mindfulness skills - not quite sure what this entails yet.
Nutrition and Hydration
My focus is now on eating a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates, proteins, and fats - cutting out the junk (well almost!) and saying bye to the beer and wine! Carbohydrates are particularly important for providing the energy needed for strenuous activity. I am also practicing staying hydrated, as proper hydration helps with acclimatization and overall performance, consuming over 3 litres per day currently. During the climb, I will carry high-energy snacks.
Final Preparations
As the climb approaches, I will taper my training to avoid overexertion - I am already looking forward to this phase!. I am a pretty organised person, but suspect the stress levels will rise somewhat as the travel day gets nearer. To minimise this I aim to ensure I have all the necessary gear and that it is in good condition and fits well. My OCD nature will ensure that I double-check my itinerary, permits, and all logistical details. Having everything organized will reduce stress and allow me to focus on the climb.
I'll post my progress in a few more blogs as my preparations continue.
